The Elves of Iceland

Iceland is a place rich in folklore, with tales of elves, trolls, and other supernatural entities. Elves in particular have made the news over the years, with articles asserting that many Icelanders still believe in these beings. Examples are often given of roadwork being altered to avoid supposed elf homes. I was very curious to learn more about these beliefs, especially their origins in Norse mythology and how they’ve evolved over time. In addition to reading various sources, I had the great pleasure of getting a guided tour of Hafnarfjörður, a town filled with elf lore and sometimes referred to as the elf capital.

View of the bay from Hafnarfjörður

What Are Elves Called?

The Icelandic word for elf is álfur. However, in Iceland, elves are often referred to as huldufólk, which directly translates to “hidden people.” The term comes from the belief that elves are normally invisible to humans, only appearing when they choose to. There is a tradition that the term huldufólk is used as it is considered more polite than álfur.

However, there’s variation in beliefs about this. Sometimes people will use huldufólk as an umbrella term for other supernatural beings beyond just elves, such as gnomes and dwarves, as they are also invisible. Others feel that huldufólk are a distinct class of supernatural beings separate from elves.

For the sake of simplicity, this article will tend to use the terms “elves” and “huldufólk” interchangeably.

Do Icelanders Believe in Elves?

Different surveys have been done over the years asking Icelanders if they believe in elves. As of writing this, the most recent one was conducted in 2022 by a market research company called Prósent. 2,300 participants over the age 18 were asked if they believe in elves (álfa), with 51.6% responding. The main results were as follows:

• Yes: 31%
• No: 57%
• I don’t know: 11%
• Don’t want to answer: 1%

So, it’s clear that not everyone believes in elves. However, if the results are indeed representative of the population at large, 31% is certainly significant.

Searching the web will reveal various news articles about boulders being moved or avoided during roadwork because they are believed to be elf homes. Here are a few examples:

In 2016, a large stone in Siglufjörður, which was traditionally home to an elf lady, was covered in dirt due to roadwork. Afterwards, a number of mishaps occurred – road flooding, mudslides, someone was injured by a fall, and a bulldozer broke down. The town council had the stone unearthed and cleaned off in response.

In 2017, there was a dispute about the future of a 70-ton boulder that was blocking the construction of a new road on the Alftanes peninsula. Activists argued that moving it would disturb an environmentally protected area and that the stone was an elf church, known as the Ofeigskirkja. Eventually, a seer from Hafnarfjörður (the elf capital) named Ragnhildur Jónsdóttir was able to reach an agreement with the elves – the stone would be moved but would be placed next to other similar stones.

In 2012, a Member of Parliament had a 30-ton stone moved to his home, thus protecting it from getting buried by an upcoming highway project. He believed the elves that inhabited it had saved his life during a car crash. He even had Ragnhildur Jónsdóttir, the elf seer from Hafnarfjörður mentioned above, visit the stone. She found that three generations of elves lived in it.

This stage in Hafnarfjörður was built around a stone. Was it because of elves?

Elves in Norse Mythology

Much of our modern knowledge of Norse mythology comes from two medieval Icelandic works: the Poetic Edda and the Prose Edda. The Poetic Edda (also called the Elder Edda) consists of numerous traditional poems that were passed down over time. The Prose Edda (also called the Younger Edda) is as work that was written or compiled by historian Snorri Sturluson in the 13th century. The elves depicted in these works influenced the writings of J.R.R. Tolkien. Below are some excerpts that give an idea of what the elves of the Viking Age were thought to be.

The following comes from the Prose Edda. In this passage, the heavenly realms are being described:

There are many magnificent dwellings. One is there called Alfheim. There dwell the folk that are called light-elves; but the dark-elves dwell down in the earth, and they are unlike the light-elves in appearance, but much more so in deeds. The light-elves are fairer than the sun to look upon, but the dark-elves are blacker than pitch.

The dark-elves mentioned in this quote are thought by some scholars to be synonymous with dwarves. This is not surprising, as elsewhere in the saga, dwarves seem to occasionally be referred to as “swarthy elves.”

The god Freyr, ruler of Alfheim

Later, when discussing what will happen after Ragnarok:

It is said that to the south and above this heaven is another heaven, which is called Andlang. But there is a third, which is above these, and is called Vidblain, and in this heaven we believe this mansion (Gimle) to be situated; but we deem that the light-elves alone dwell in it now.

There are various other brief mentions of elves in the Poetic Edda, which predates the Prose Edda. For example, the poem Lokasenna describes a feast hosted by the sea-god Ægir that is attended by various gods (such as Odin and Frigg) as well as elves. For another example, we look at the poem Fafnismol, in which a dragon called Fafnir tells the hero Sigurth about the Norns (which are deities that determine the fates of people):

Of many births | the Norns must be,
Nor one in race they were;
Some to gods, others | to elves are kin,
And Dvalin’s daughters some.

This information about Norns is also mentioned in the Prose Edda. It would seem that these divine Norns can come from the ranks of gods, elves, and dwarves (Dvalin’s daughters).

Based upon these excerpts, it would seem that elves are portrayed as semi-divine beings that reside in the heavenly realms in the company of the gods. However, the Völundarkvitha in the Poetic Edda recounts the tale of an elf named Völund who lives on the earthly plane. In the poem, he is referred to as “the master of elves” and the “greatest of elves.” The story says that Völund was the third son of the King of the Finns. He and his two brothers were once married to Valkyries, but their wives flew away in search of battles. While his two brothers pursued them, Völund decided to stay behind. He was a renowned smith and began forging precious rings in the hopes of his wife’s return. Eventually, the King and Queen of the Njars have Völund captured, hamstrung, and exiled to an island where he is forced to make treasures for them. Ultimately, Völund wreaks a terrible revenge on the king’s family and is able to fly away on wings he constructed.

Princess Bothvild showing Völund his stolen ring

Thus, it would seem not all elves live in Alfheim or Vidblain. In the case of Völund, you have an elf who lives on earth (Midgard), but has exceptional qualities – he is a prince, was married to a Valkyrie, and is a smith of such skill that he can make wings to fly. Of course, an elven smith crafting rings might call to mind Tolkien’s work.

Elves in Folklore

Unlike the light-elves of the Eddas, who reside in the heavenly realms, the huldufólk tend to live on earth (like in Hafnarfjörður). They’re often thought to reside in lava rock, though the true nature of their homes is hidden, just as they are. When they do appear, huldufólk are often portrayed as being visually indistinguishable from regular humans, though it’s sometimes thought that an elf could be identified by the lack of a philtrum (the ridge between the nose and upper lip).

The huldufólk have their own society, which is not too dissimilar from humans. They have jobs, families, marketplaces, and their own churches. Some stories indicate that they have a king and queen. It’s interesting to note that in modern times, huldufólk have kept the clothing and occupations of times gone by.

The other thing to consider about the huldufólk is that they can be benevolent or malevolent. There are tales where elves have provided assistance to people, but also stories where they have replaced children with changelings. Elves may also punish people who have transgressed in some way. Thus, in folklore, elves should be approached cautiously and respectfully.

Hild, Queen of the Elves, descends into elfworld with a shepherd following.

The Evolution of Elves

Readers may wonder why the elf lore has shifted over the centuries. There are undoubtedly various factors. One may be the influence of elf traditions from other cultures, such as the Celts. This may explain why some people draw a distinction between huldufólk and elves, with the latter coming in various sizes – some being very small. Another reason for the shift, and this is likely a major one, is the introduction of Christianity to Iceland.

Iceland officially converted to Christianity in AD 1000 (though people could practice their old traditions privately). The semi-divine elves who dwelled with the Norse gods wouldn’t be compatible with this new religious system. Thus, they had to adapt to fit a Christian worldview, and this can easily be seen in the tales of their origins.

There are two distinct folktales explaining the origin of elves. In one, God visits Adam and Eve (the first people according to the Bible), and Eve presents their children. Eve didn’t have time to wash all of her offspring beforehand, so she hides the unwashed ones out of embarrassment and lies to God about it. God is aware of this deception and decrees that the children who were hidden from Him shall be hidden from men. Thus, the huldufólk were created.

In the other origin story, a traveler gets lost and is offered shelter at the farmhouse of three women. While attempting to have a romantic interlude with one, he finds that he is unable to touch her – he feels nothing there. She explains that she is actually a spirit and has no physical body. She once resided in heaven but was one of the spirits that refused to pick sides during the Devil’s revolt. Those that actively rebelled were sent into darkness and those that stayed neutral were exiled to earth, thus becoming the huldufólk.

It would seem the elves/huldufólk of folklore are either the hidden children of Adam and Eve or fallen angels. Either way, their supernatural qualities and existence on earth are then compatible with the Christian religion.

Älvalek (1866) – by Swedish painter August Malmström

Searching for Elves

There are numerous spots around Iceland that have elf associations. However, one of the most prominent is Hafnarfjörður – referred to as the “elf capital” by some. Hafnarfjörður is a picturesque harbor town about 6 miles south of Reykjavík. It is believed that various supernatural beings call this place home, including huldufólk, elves, dwarves, gnomes, and fairies. The town actually publishes the Hafnarfjörður Hidden Worlds Map, which marks locations where these beings have been identified and provides some information about them. The map was originally hand drawn by a prominent seer named Erla Stefánsdóttir and was first published in 1993.

Water feature in Hellisgerði park

While there are a number of places around the town that have elf associations, a major site for folklore is Hellisgerði park. It is a charming green space that first became a park in 1922. Paths wind through striking lava rock formations, and it is filled with tall trees (a rarity in Iceland’s northern climate). The are various accounts of hidden folk being encountered around the park and living within the rocks and caves. Also in the park is a troll supposedly turned to stone by the sun – its face petrified in a scream. Additionally, a short distance from the boundaries of the park, is a prominent boulder believed to be home to a dwarf. The park envelopes visitors in natural beauty and serenity. Perhaps the elves are walking with you, unseen.

In order to learn about the huldufólk in Hafnarfjörður and have a sense of direction on my visit, I went on a walking tour with Hidden World Walks. Our guide, Silja Gunnarsdottir, was very welcoming and knowledgeable about the huldufólk. She took us through the park and surrounding area, pointing out sights of folkloric significance and some local history as well. I found it to be a very enjoyable and informative tour. You can view the official website (www.alfar.is) for details, and I’ll note that the Hafnarfjörður Hidden Worlds Map is provided as a nice souvenir.

Petrified Troll – note how it looks like the profile of a face with a large open mouth

The Dwarf Stone in Hafnarfjörður

Conclusion

I think there will always be something enigmatic about the elves of Iceland. Inextricably tied to Iceland’s majestic and rugged landscape, the hidden folk seem to stand as a reminder of old traditions and the importance of the natural world. A visit to Hafnarfjörður was a wonderful way to learn more about these folkloric beings, and to experience a serene locale. While the elves may have remained hidden on my visit to Iceland, the country’s natural beauty was there for all to see.

Area of Hellisgerði said to be home to a huldufólk woman

Stage area of Hellisgerði park

Locations

Hellisgerði Park
Hellisgata 3
220 Hafnarfjörður
Iceland

Official website of Hafnarfjörður: https://en.hafnarfjordur.is/

Hidden World Walks
Strandgata 6
220 Hafnarfjörður
Iceland

Official website: https://www.alfar.is/

Written by A. P. Sylvia