Iceland’s Christmas Trolls: Grýla and the Yule Lads

Christmas traditions vary throughout the world, and not all countries incorporate Santa Claus. In Iceland, their Christmastime characters are a family of trolls (Grýla, Leppalúði, and the Yule Lads), along with a large cat (known as the Yule Cat). While some can bring gifts, there can also be mischief – and the punishment for bad behavior is much more serious than coal left in a stocking. Let’s explore these holiday traditions.

Grýla is a troll or ogress. She is often depicted as a large, ugly, old woman. The very first reference to her is in the Prose Edda, a collection of Norse mythology from the 13th century. Grýla is included in a list of troll names in a section of the Edda known as the Nafnaþulur. No details about her are given there. Poems from the 17th century start linking Grýla to Christmas and providing her with a backstory.

Grýla seems to function as a scare tactic to use on children, serving a similar role to Germanic folklore’s Krampus. During Christmastime, Grýla leaves her mountain dwelling in search for misbehaving children. Those that she finds, she puts in a sack and takes back to her lair to cook in a stew. The exact location of Grýla’s home can differ, but some traditions say that it’s at the summit of Mt. Esja. This mountain is about 6 miles from Reykjavík and easily visible from the city.

Mt. Esja in the distance

Grýla’s appearance is much more monstrous in some sources. 19th century author Jón Árnason wrote in Icelandic Legends:

Grýla had three hundred heads, six eyes in each head, besides two livid and ghostly blue eyes at the back of each neck. She had goat’s horns, and her ears were so long as to hang down to her shoulders at one end, and at the other to join the ends of her three hundred noses. On each forehead was a tuft of hair, and on each chin a tangled and filthy beard. Her teeth were like burnt lava. To each thigh she had bound a sack, in which she used to carry naughty children, and she had, moreover, hoofs like a horse. Besides all this, she had fifteen tails, and on each tail a hundred bags of skin, every one of which bags would hold twenty children.

Thus, the way in which Grýla is depicted can vary. However, most modern imagery doesn’t include the numerous heads, tails, etc. Rather, she’s shown as a monstrous old woman. For example, while at the Magic Ice bar in Reykjavík, one of the carvings appeared to be of Grýla. (On a side note, Magic Ice was a very fun and unique experience. You don parkas and enjoy beverages surrounded by ice carvings inspired by Norse mythology.)

Ice carving that seems to be of Gryla at the Magic Ice bar in Reykjavik

Despite this frightening nature, Grýla does not live alone. She has a troll husband named Leppalúði. He is depicted as being lazy and oafish, so he usually doesn’t play an active role in any of the Christmastime wanderings. He often just stays in the cave and eats his wife’s disturbing stew.

Folktales have mentioned that Grýla has had numerous children, but the ones most prevalent these days are the thirteen Yule Lads (Jólasveinar). The names of the lads and their number were standardized in a 1932 poem by Jóhannes úr Kötlum. Each lad has a name that describes the kind of mischief they engage in. Each one arrives on a particular day before Christmas, and then departs thirteen days later. The first arrives on December 12th and leaves on December 25th. Every day after the 12th, another Yule Lad appears. The last one’s visit starts on December 24th and ends on January 6th. Below is a list of their Icelandic names and the established English versions, though some of the English names don’t seem to be literal translations.

• Stekkjarstaur (Sheep-Cote Clod) – Tries to steal sheep milk but is inhibited by his stiff legs.
• Giljagaur (Gully Gawk) – Hides in gullies and steals the froth from milk buckets
• Stúfur (Stubby) – Is quite short and steals pans to eat any remaining food in them
• Þvörusleikir (Spoon Licker) – Is very thin and steals spoons to lick them
• Pottaskefill (Pot Scraper) – Steals pots for any remaining food in them
• Askasleikir (Bowl Licker) – It was once a custom to keep food bowls under the bed, which this Yule Lad steals
• Hurðaskellir (Door Slammer) – Slams doors, often at night
• Skyrgámur (Skyr Gobbler) – Enjoys eating skyr (yogurt)
• Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Swiper) – Hides in the rafters and steals sausages
• Gluggagægir (Window Peeper) – Looks through windows, searching for items to steal
• Gáttaþefur (Doorway Sniffer) – Has a large nose he uses to locate snowflake bread
• Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) – Steals meet using a hook
• Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar) – Steals candles (which used to be made from fat and thus edible)

Aside from all the mischief, it would seem the Yule Lads also fulfill a gift giving function in the vein of Santa Claus. If a well-behaved child leaves their shoe on the windowsill while a lad is visiting, they will find a present inside the next morning. However, poorly behaved children will get a rotten potato. This Santa-esque role seems to have become a major focus in modern portrayals. It’s even affected their appearance, as the lads are now often depicted in a manner similar to Santa, with white beards, rosy cheeks, and red attire.

The last member of the troll family is their pet, the Yule Cat (Jólakötturinn). This feline is gigantic with glowing eyes. It will roam the land and eat children who do not get new clothes for Christmas. It was first mentioned in an 1862 collection of folklore, then included Kötlum’s 1932 collection of Christmas poems. While it originally wasn’t the pet of the trolls, it became associated with them over time.

Yule Cat Christmas Tree Ornament

Thus, we have the Icelandic pantheon of Yuletide characters. Their overall imagery appears to have softened over time, and they are a beloved part of the season. There are various ornaments, figures, and books regarding the troll family sold in stores, and there are public displays that include them. For example, starting in 2018, Reykjavik started putting up a large Yule Cat decoration. These memorable trolls are a wonderful addition to the tapestry of Christmas visitors found throughout Europe.

Store display of Gryla with Yule Lad merchandise

Another view of Mt. Esja

Written by A. P. Sylvia